Walking through the labyrinth of super-narrow streets that make up Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter on the opening weekend of the 37th America’s Cup finals, I slowed behind a family wearing red socks (and of course the All-Black New Zealand shirts).

“Excuse me, can you remind me why you wear red socks?” I asked (knowing the answer but seeking it from the next generation). Naturally, the young kids and their guardian quickly explained how these were Sir Peter Blake’s lucky socks, a tradition they are trying to keep alive today.

Minutes later we were into the hot sunshine, dockside at Port Vell, the central Barcelona city marina, waiting for the ceremonial dockout of Emirates Team New Zealand’s AC75 prior to racing. I was tip-toeing behind a lengthy crowd wall at least four deep, again all proudly wearing the All-Black Kiwi strip.

To witness the Maori horns and singing, the Haka and sendoff for the AC75 ‘Taihora’, which is then led out each day by a traditional Maori canoe (a Waka), is truly spine-tingling stuff.

Anyone who has seen the Haka before a rugby game will know it’s motivational theatre that other nations can’t replicate.

The Brits may have the acoustic advantage in Barcelona thanks to the multitude of superyacht horns, which is quite something to hear as they dock out. But it also feels more exclusive – with the INEOS Britannia base facing these megayachts, it’s tough for Brit fans to get a close view unless you get a VIP pass inside the base.

All-Black army

I would guess-timate the New Zealand supporters on the opening weekend of this America’s Cup outnumbered British INEOS supporters by around 10:1.

Of course, it’s easier to pick them. The Kiwis arrive at the airport in their black shirts and seemingly never remove them (good deodorant or the diligent use of travel wash must be essential).

Kiwi fans kitted out in the full national regalia. Photo: Toby Hodges

But it’s always sobering to remember that this is a nation of 5 million people – the equivalent to just over half of London’s population.

Yes, the New Zealand team is fighting for an unprecedented hat-trick of wins in the modern America’s Cup era, but let’s not forget what happened in the build-up to this edition.

Having won in foiling cats in Bermuda in 2017, they brought the Auld Mug back to Auckland, where it had enjoyed a home with the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron for the first seven years of the Millenium.

The Kiwis then re-invented the format, turning the competing vessels into the futuristic foiling monster monohulls we see today. The design and engineering nouse to do such a thing and then build and sail the first one to prove it works, shows the country’s innovative and deeply resourceful nature. (Bear in mind that the rigs for all the competing boats are built by Southern Spars in New Zealand too).

The problem was, when the 2021 Cup competition came around it was during Covid, so no one could watch the AC36 live. And then Emirates Team New Zealand CEO Grant Dalton took the bold decision to sell the location… back to the other side of the world.

All of this means you’d be forgiven for thinking Kiwi fans would be a tad bitter and may not want to spend an annual salary flying 18,000km to support their defending team!

Not so. In fact, it seems that every single one of them is currently in the Catalunyan capital. 

The Red Socks that became a symbol of the Kiwis in the America’s Cup in the ’90s remain to this day. Photo: Toby Hodges

Religious support

The Kiwis are stubbornly independent, infectiously passionate and incredibly resourceful. It makes for a dangerous mix for its sports teams and fans when you’re against them.

During my lifetime, this remote Pacific island country has dominated both international rugby and America’s Cup sailing. These sports are like a religion to them and they support them as fervently.

I’m afraid even INEOS’ financial might and technology can’t compete with that.

So if you’re a British fan, it’s time to don that Union Jack, head to Barcelona and start cheering as eagerly as possible.

Fine margins will decide this Cup – which may just come down to having that extra team member in support.

[Foot note: I admit to being a patriotic Brit and in writing this headline am hoping it helps jinx the outcome!]

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