With careful planning there are still some great bluewater cruising options. Janneke Kuysters and Wietze van der Laan investigate future-proof itineraries to sail the world
In stressful times it’s tempting to cast off the bowlines and head for the horizon to sail the world. But the reality is that cruising in a post-pandemic world is complicated. The sailing community has been on a steep learning curve over the past 18 months. Cruisers are dealing with the new reality of sailing in a world where you have to be creative and adapt to constantly changing limitations.
The list of ‘lessons learned’ is interesting. The most important one is: have access to information. With borders opening and closing at short notice worldwide, rules and paperwork requirements ever-changing, it’s imperative that you stay connected.
Another important factor to think about is your impact on the destinations and communities that you cruise to. Many distribution systems have been disrupted, even for food. You may find yourself competing with locals for food and health care. Especially in poorer countries where vaccination levels are still low, the pressure is high on any kind of health provision.
Another consideration, especially if you are planning to cruise part-time, is where you can leave your boat safely for any length of time. Are flights home still available and is there a chance that you can come back to your boat?
Entry and exit procedures have become more complicated with time constraints on pre-departure tests and quarantine requirements. So choosing a cruising route that will force you to cross many borders will imply a lot of additional paperwork.
To find cruising itineraries that will enable sailors to enjoy a wide range of experiences while keeping paperwork and health risks manageable involves going off the beaten track slightly.
One solution is to sail to larger countries where you can cruise to your heart’s content without having to cross borders. Another consideration is to go to wealthier nations where vaccination levels are high and there is less competition for food and healthcare.
Last but not least, it pays to consider cruising to a country or countries with good facilities for yachts so you can leave yours and fly home. If things go wrong and you get separated from your yacht for a long time, it helps to know that it’s in a safe place.
Atlantic with a twist
If you plan to go cruising for a year, the north Atlantic offers some interesting options to consider: we’ve designated them the Mini Atlantic Circuit, the Bermuda Square and Palms and Polar
The Mini Atlantic Circuit
This is an interesting option for those wanting to go cruising but who are not quite sure if this is the right time. This itinerary is perfectly doable in three months, but can be extended up to half a year if the Cape Verde Islands are included. It’s even possible to leave the boat in the Canary Islands, for instance, and fly in and out as necessary.
Photo: Tor Johnson
The route includes many very interesting destinations and cruising areas. The Spanish Rias, for example, or the historic towns of Porto and Lisbon. Madeira and the Canary Islands are ideal for making short trips from anchorages to harbours and back, while the Azores offer a completely different cruising ground alltogether. If you include the Cape Verde Islands, it brings a truly African experience to an already full list. Apart from the Cape Verde Islands, all destinations are within the Schengen Zone, and so create some time constraints for UK/US/non-EU residents.
Total miles: 3,300 (without Cape Verde)
Best season: Summer months if it is done as a three month trip; if there is more time available then the only consideration is to avoid sailing in the Bay of Biscay in the winter months.
The Bermuda Square
This route looks like the traditional Atlantic Circuit at first sight, but is actually totally different. Opting to avoid most of the Caribbean offers the chance to experience a cruising ground that is relatively unknown: the east coast of the US. It also creates the opportunity to do two ocean crossings and build up sea-time and experience.
After leaving the Canary or Cape Verde Islands, this track leads to the Bahamas with their myriad of cruising options. Our personal favourite are the Exumas, where scarcely populated islands offer fantastic opportunities to anchor in remote bays without seeing anybody for days.
Photo: BlueOrangeStudio/Alamy
Going north towards Bermuda there are two options. The first one is to get on the magic carpet of the Gulf Stream and fly north, stopping at a few destinations on the way. The other one, suitable for boats with a draught of less than 6ft and air-draught of 62ft, is to cruise the Intracoastal Waterway.
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![What equipment do you need for bluewater voyaging and how should you prioritise your budget? This will always be a prime consideration if you’re planning long-distance sailing, and to find the answers we sought the advice of the 258 skippers who took part in last year’s Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) rallies. We asked them what type of equipment they purchased for their voyages, how much it cost, and, having completed the ARC, which kit they rated most highly. We then followed up some of these skippers’ reports in more detail, taking a closer look at the equipment they chose and their budgets. In addition to skippers’ choice of bluewater gear, a large range of a safety kit is a non-negotiable element for all ARC sailors – indeed, for anyone heading offshore – so we examine the cost of safety gear and look at the training undertaken by skippers and crews before they set sail. Typical costs The average spend on equipment specifically for ocean cruising reported by last year’s ARC skippers was €32,398. That’s a surprisingly high figure, but it does need some further explanation. Six entrants spent over €100,000, which we assume includes major extras such as upgrades to mast, rig, and sails for newly purchased yachts, and this skewed the average somewhat. The highest concentration of spends were, however, between €10,000 and €30,000. More than half the skippers spent several tens of thousands of euros preparing their yachts for an Atlantic crossing and extended cruising, something confirmed in the case studies below. That isn’t to say that everyone thinking of going long-distance cruising has to spend such sums in one hit. We estimate that as many as 100 of the skippers surveyed already possessed the necessary bluewater equipment on their yachts, which were ready and fully equipped before their owners even signed up to the ARC. Recommended equipment Of the equipment the skippers did choose to spend extra money on, there were some notable recommendations: watermakers, solar panels, satellite communications, downwind sails such as a Parasailor and safety equipment (safety kit was the commonest area of spend). The responses and comments confirm that today’s cruisers want fresh water on tap rather than stowed in tanks or bottles, and power on demand – increasingly from sustainable rather than diesel-generated means. Sustainable power from hydrogenerators, wind turbines and solar panels, harnessed with large battery banks, is increasingly being chosen for distance cruising. Skippers are looking for a high level of safety equipment and they want to stay in touch, wherever they are. They also recognise the need for shade and the value of a good bimini. Cost to value ratio The most expensive piece of equipment bought, on average, was a diesel generator, but this was an upgrade chosen or required by only 23 skippers. Money spent on downwind sails, masts and rigging were the next highest amount – 26% of skippers bought new sails and 20% spent money upgrading mast and rigging. Watermakers are another costly upgrade at an average of €5,719 across 42 yachts, but a highly valued one, judging by most skippers’ feedback. We asked all ARC skippers to list their top five items of equipment bought specifically for the crossing, and watermakers were a clear favourite. The owner of Oyster 55 Princess Arguella said his Seafresh watermaker “really is top”, while the skipper of Hanse 531 Jack Rowland Smith went as far as to make his own prototype, stating it is: “less than half size of anything on the market and more efficient at 125lt/hr”. The greatest praise was reserved for Watt & Sea hydrogenerators, the Parasailor spinnaker and the Iridium GO! satellite wifi device. Dan Bower, the highly experienced skipper of Skye 51 Skyelark, reports: “Watt&Sea reduces reliance on generator/engine by up to three hours per day”. The crew of the Xc45 Nina of Southampton thinks it “a brilliant addition – little diesel generation needed”, praise that was seconded by the skipper of X-55 Makara of Exe. How gear performed The owner of Lagoon 450F SkyFall 1 describes a Parasailor as a ‘must have’ item after using it for what he estimated to be around 90% the crossing. Fellow Lagoon 450F owner agrees, adding that it is “perfect for downwind sailing” – and that comment was echoed by the skipper of Allures 39.9 Orion. Mark Thurlow, owner of Moody 49 Rum Truffle noted that a Parasailor provides “less rocking than other options and more control than a spinnaker.” Iridium GO! was carried by 95 yachts in the fleet as their primary means of satellite communication. The crew of Wight Spirit, a Contest 55, reports theirs was “very reliable for email and weather”. Princess Arguella thought it an “absolute lifeline as only means of communication”. The Norwegian skipper of the XC38 Malisa says he purchased the GO! after seeing a review in Yachting World and a recommendation by the ARC organisers and commented that it proved excellent. The owner of Beneteau 57 Mon Ami of Sweden commented that an AIS transponder (send and receive) is essential for a transatlantic crossing. The Canadian crew of Dobri Dani, an Elan Impression 434, highly rated their investment in new standing rigging as “insurance coverage and safety”. Also putting safety first was the skipper of Lagoon 400S2 La Boheme, describing his favourite investment, the Jordan series drogue, as a “panic button for extreme conditions”. One interesting aside is the top choice of the crew of Swan 68 Titania: a Sodastream machine, used to avoid the need for plastic bottles. Aventure’s owner praised a pressure cooker as a means of saving energy, something that Princess Arguella’s skipper also concurred with, adding that it helped them “dine like kings” aboard their Oyster 55. Safety gear In common with most other organised races and rallies, the ARC has compulsory safety requirements, and there are two ways of looking at the mandatory checklists and inspections. Some see it as an expensive obligation – the cost of the total safety kit list is at least £8,000 – while others look on it as a benchmark of best practice preparations. Interestingly, most of those who responded to our survey found the requirements a helpful way of preparing to a good standard. Roger Seymour is one of the ARC’s team of safety inspectors. He is a lifelong sailor with many ocean passages behind him and a Yachtmaster examiner. His job is to go through the equipment list in detail aboard each yacht to make sure it passes muster. “The most common problems we have are still with liferafts that are out of date and need servicing, or lifejackets, harnesses and liferings that are not suitable,” he says. “Sometimes people have bought lifejackets at the bottom end of the market so they aren’t fitted with a sprayhood or crotch straps and they will need to upgrade them. We require three-point harnesses and sometimes people resent that, but we are trying to do the best for them and their families. Liferings have to have the boat name on them, and have reflective tape, a light and whistle.” Seymour also cautions against relying on boatbuilders’ standard emergency arrangement for emergency steering or flooding, for example. “Boatbuilders are often looking at coastal sailing where there is close rescue and not the ultimate, so it’s a different approach,” says Seymour. “For example, people often have difficulty taking off inspection caps for the emergency tiller, and the rusty piece of metal that comes with the boat often doesn’t fit. If they have looked at it beforehand, they’ve normally resolved it. “Self sufficiency is what people need to think about. If your electrics fail or the water pump fails, can you get water out of the tanks? If the solenoid for the gas installation fails and it goes into the off position, can you bypass this?” Problems with batteries and sufficient energy are common. Perhaps these have not been replaced recently, and now crews are facing demands including lighting for nearly 12 hours of darkness each day. While an event checklist is “very reasonable” says Seymour, “If I was doing it, I would want to upgrade for flooding and fire. The list requires only two fire extinguishes, which is not enough in my view, and the number of bilge pumps are specified, but not the volume of water etc. That is something we discuss at seminars.” He finds that those who have been to an ISAF offshore sailing, first aid or sea survival courses, or ARC bluewater preparation weekend are “a thousand times better prepared because they have thought about all these scenarios. The difference is chalk and cheese.” But preparing for an ocean crossing is, he maintains, “nothing magic. Start early, talk to the crew, go over everything stem to stern and do a good shakedown cruise.” Safety training We asked some of the ARC crews what ocean-specific safety training they had undertaken, and whether they had found it useful. “We did a two-day course held by the Norwegian Rescue Association,” says Svein Lien. “I found it most useful as, in addition to theory, they had in-water practice with lifejackets and liferaft, and we tested [firing] flares. We said at least two people on board should have this training before the ARC, but three of the four crew we ended up with had actually done it. “I also found the safety guidance in the ARC handbook very good – and the inspection, though by that time we had it all sorted.” John Rutherford renewed his sea survival training before the ARC. “Essential”, he comments. “We didn’t need any of it but people need to know what to do in an emergency or a minor accident that could escalate very fast. It made us review what equipment we had on board. We were mostly OK but did add a drogue and double-checked the other equipment. I also did the medical officer course.” Australian skipper Emir Rudzic, sailing two-handed with his partner, Xin, had done a sea survival course “as part of my short racing career” and says he divided the preparations into three categories. “First, prevention. This is a no-expense-spared category, the one that is designed to prevent any emergency, and on top of this category was our forecasting subscription with PredictWind, their top plan, and an Iridium GO! with an unlimited data plan so we would have no barriers to checking the weather. “The other thing we included in this category was super comfortable lifejackets – top of the line Spinlocks – with three-point harnesses. Then we included radar, AIS, Forward Scan sonar and, cheapest of the safety equipment items we bought, a US$5 external buzzer that no one could sleep through. “The second category we put a reasonable emphasis on was tools. These were the type of things which would get you out of a pickle: bilge pump, fire blanket, MOB device, various spares, tools, power drill, etc. You can go nuts in this category but we got the basics plus a bit more. “The third category was emergency: liferaft, EPIRB, grab bag etc. But our idea was that if you plan the above two categories well you won’t ever need this one. And within this category we just needed to survive, and [we considered] it didn’t really matter if we were uncomfortable while surviving.” “You buy safety equipment in the hope it will never be needed,” John Rutherford says, “but having it gives peace of mind. It allows you to relax and not worry that minor problems will stop you from sailing. Although some of the equipment is expensive and will eventually be thrown away, don’t skimp.” Emir Rudzic strongly advises practising with safety equipment as part of your preparations. “What is important is to have a play with all your safety equipment. Open it, use it, put it together, practice with it, and do a test run. “When we got our Iridium we activated the SIM when we left Gibraltar and used Gibraltar to the Canary Islands as a test for the system. “Also it is important that everyone on board knows how to use all the equipment and knows where everything is, because we have our boat set up differently when doing long crossings compared with island-hopping.” Rudzic has posted a series of videos on his ARC preparations and experiences on the YouTube channel Sailing Hugo. Case study: Henrik Nyman Yacht: Pitanga (Oyster 745) Nationality: GBR Pitanga was already fully specced for offshore passagemaking before the ARC, but her owner says: “We bought a proper medical kit (£2,000), a Garmin inReach (£500), fishing equipment (£1,000), offshore sail repair kits (£2,000) and water filtering equipment (£100). We also got some extra spares for the engine, watermaker, etc, but [I consider them] a saving as they are expensive in the Caribbean, and we need them for normal maintenance.” Which gear represented the best value for money? “Without doubt the water filter. I like it so much that we use it full-time and the environment benefits make me feel good,” says Nyman. Equipment he rated highly (not least for the feelgood factor) was the fishing gear bought for the ARC. “We arrived in St Lucia with almost 25kg of fillets from various sorts of fishes in the freezer.” He’s not so sure about the medical kit. “It was very expensive and also needs a lot of [replacements] to be up to date. It also occupies a lot of space. We’ll likely downgrade to a coastal kit once we are back in the Med.” Besides the hardware needed, Nyman’s advice is to bring as much food as you can from the Canaries. “It is so expensive in Caribbean.” Case study: John Rutherford Yacht: Degree of Latitude (Oyster 45) Nationality: GBR Rutherford calculates that he spent over £46,000 on equipment and upgrades specifically for crossing the Atlantic with the rally. He bought a watermaker (£9,600), generator (£8,100), Fleet One satcom system (£4,800), twin headsails (£3,000) and upgraded in various areas. For example, he replaced the headsail furler (£4,600), the battery and power management system (£5,800), upgraded the autopilot drive (£3,400) and applied Coppercoat antifouling (£6,500). “There were also a host of small items and spares for everything in sight.” Not all turned out to be necessary, or even good value, however. The diesel generator was “not worth the money,” he believes. “A generator is needed but I believe a wind turbine would have fulfilled our needs with only a little engine time to boost it.” Nor was the watermaker essential. “It was useful but we could have carried enough water for the crossing,” he comments. Items that were worth spending on were the Fleet One satcoms – “necessary for the crossing, and worth every penny” – and the twin headsails – “best buy of all. We ran twin headsails for all but 36 hours of the crossing.” As for the upgrades and replacements, he says some “safety measures” that were made for the long crossing would have been necessary eventually. Case study: Emir Rudzic Yacht: Hugo EX (Oceanis 41.1) Nationality: AUS “I’m not sure we bought anything that was [solely] for the ARC,” says Rudzic. “Safety gear was probably the most costly, but since our boat was new we were spending that money anyway.” In total he reckons around €5,000 went on safety gear, but adds: “There were very few things on the ARC safety gear list we would not have bought anyway.” His best value items were a professional subscription to PredictWind and an Iridium GO! “which we consider the most important piece of safety gear we have onboard”. He also rated radar very highly: “Almost a must for a double-handed crew.” But there was nothing on the requirements list or installed for the crossing that he regretted buying and says: “If you use ARC’s safety gear list and preparation advice as a guide when you first get your boat, once it comes to preparing the boat you’ll spend very little extra money. There is nothing special about the ARC – everything the organisers recommend is stuff you should have.” Case study: Mark Thurlow Yacht: Rum Truffle (Moody 49) Nationality: GBR “We were pretty well set up for the ARC but in the spirit of your questions, here’s what we had for the transatlantic,” says Mark Thurlow. His extra items totalled over £18,000. • Hydrovane: £8,000 • Additional radar reflector: £300 • Additions to make our liferaft a 24-hour version: £250 • Additional electronic flares: £200 • Solar panels and arch: £2,000 • Parasailor: £8,000 To Thurlow’s mind, the best value items were the Hydrovane self-steering and solar panels. “Despite an issue with bolts, the Hydrovane was effective in steering without using power,” he comments. He was not so convinced of the necessity of the Parasailor, however. “It was great, but in strong winds with effectively a single crew on watch, wing on wing was an excellent and manageable downwind option,” he notes. His advice to others is to prepare early. “Preparing the boat over the previous two years, with the ARC manual as a reference, allowed us to buy additions at best prices and not have to rush purchases at the last minute. This, together with a comprehensive maintenance plan, kept issues with kit to the minimum. “I did fail to service the spinnaker pole, and this oversight did bite back with a breakage that I could not fix on passage,” he adds. “Carrying comprehensive spares and tools is essential.” Case study: Svein Lien Yacht: Fryd (Ovni 445) Nationality: NOR “We didn’t buy any equipment only for the ARC but the safety advice list helped us to equip the boat to a good standard,” says Lien. “Most of this would have come on board anyway.” Bluewater gear that he chose specifically for transoceanic sailing were a generator, watermaker, self-steering and a spinnaker, all of which he praises as “joyful equipment.” There was nothing he felt he could well have done without. Like others in the rally he victualled before leaving the Canaries. “The best advice I got was to stock up the boat with everything you possibly can find room for [in terms of] food, drinks and spares, as everything is much more expensive and difficult to get while in Caribbean.” Case study: Gorm Gondesen Yacht: Fica (Finot Conq FC53) Nationality: GER The best value items were the Schenker Smart 60 DC watermaker (approx £6,000) and the Watt&Sea 600 hydrogenerator (approx £5,000). The watermaker was reliable and always produced good drinking water. “The only thing we regretted was that we didn’t have a good bimini protecting the cockpit or a tent over the foredeck hatches so we could leave them open at night at anchor when it rained.” Case study: Neil Chapman Yacht: Supertaff (Van der Stadt Rebel 41) Nationality: GBR “I spent approximately £8,000. Event fees were £2,000 and new equipment such as satcoms with Iridium GO! and YB Tracker were £2,000. Upgrading the autopilot and various other components were another £2,000, and travel and logistics a further £2,000.”](https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/21/2019/06/bluewater-gear-arc-survey-2018-tintomara-rm-1350.jpg)
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The ICW was built in the 1800s and the developers of the waterway incorporated naturally occurring rivers, inlets, sounds, and bays and connecting them with man made channels. Along the east coast of the US it makes for magical cruising along the well known historic sites. From New York this itinerary leads to Bermuda, where the azure lagoon waits. Then on to the Azores.
Total miles: 9,500
Best season: This circuit can be done in one year; leaving the UK in the summer and returning again in the warm season. A year can be added by cruising north to Maine, returning south to Florida for the winter and heading back to the UK the next summer.
Palms and Polar
This is a good choice for cruisers who love making miles and travelling to remote destinations. The first half is similar to the Bermuda Square, but extends north from New York. If possible, a visit to Canada (Newfoundland) can be included in this itinerary.
When ice conditions allow, there is a lot of exploring to do in Greenland. Dutch cruisers Manon Swart and Stef Vermeij sailed their Ovni 43 Long John Silver from the Caribbean to Greenland and loved this unusual track:
Photo: technotr/Getty
“We planned to sail around the world, but found ourselves caught in lockdowns in the Caribbean. So we decided to head back to the Netherlands via the northern route. What a splendid cruising ground!”
Although the distances look very large on the map, they are in fact not that big: it’s the Mercator projection that plays tricks with our perception.
Total miles: 9,500
Best season: This itinerary can be done in a little over a year; leaving the UK in summer and sailing across to the Bahamas in December. Then it’s a leisurely cruise up the east coast of the US and Canada, because August is the best month for exploring Greenland.
Exploring the north Pacific
The north Pacific offers great destinations and challenging sailing to intrepid cruisers. Possibilities include the old Clipper Route and an interesting Japan/Aleutians Loop
The Old Clipper Route
This traditional route makes good use of the prevailing winds in the north Pacific. After leaving from Panama, and potentially making some stops in Central America and Mexico, the crew has time to settle into a long crossing to Hawaii.
Hawaii is not a conventional cruising destination given the lack of non-rolly anchorages, but there are good marinas available to base yourself for exploring ashore. Our personal favourite is the municipal marina in Honolulu, right next to Waikiki beach. The Hawaii Yacht Club is a haven of hospitality.
Photo: Tor Johnson
Sailing from Hawaii to Alaska it’s best to sail due north for the first 500 miles to avoid the large high pressure area and to pick up the favourable south-westerly winds.
There’s a choice of two tracks: straight to mainland Alaska, aiming for Sitka, or via western Alaska and aiming for Kodiak.
The difficulty in making the choice lies in the fact that the summer season is relatively short in Alaska and the amount of amazing cruising destinations is mind-blowing. It is very had to pick and choose.
Total miles: 11,500
Best season: The long voyage to Hawaii is best made in March or April, leaving enough time to explore the Hawaiian islands. The passage to Alaska needs to be made in June to allow for the best summer months in the Inside Passage. Travelling back south can be done from September onwards to California and from November onwards back to Panama. The total itinerary can be sailed in even less than a year, but involves a lot of sailing.
The Japan/Aleutians loop
This starts with the Clipper Route, but continues westward. It requires careful planning because the gap between two seasons is narrow and needs to be used exactly right. But the rewards are plentiful: Japan offers sensational cruising and of course very interesting historic sites to visit on land.
“For us, our visit to Japan was one of the highlights of our circumnavigation,” Dutch cruiser Ada Kerkstra says. She and her partner Akko Kalma sailed their 40ft Robert Clark design classic yacht White Haze around Japan for five months.
Photo: KJalma
Then the challenging crossing to the rough and scarcely populated chain of Alaska’s Aleutian Islands gives the opportunity to visit some truly ‘off the beaten track’ destinations.
From Kodiak there are lots of different options to cruise Alaskan and Canadian waters, either offshore or via the magnificent Inside Passage.
“You can spend a lifetime cruising here and not see the same anchorage twice” says American cruiser Fran Hartman. She and her husband, Jim, sailed their Tartan 48 Cape St. James into Sitka at the end of a circumnavigation and never left the region. From Alaska, the loop can continue south.
Total miles: 16,500
Best season: Sailing from Hawaii for Japan must be done before the tropical storms start in May. The best sailing to Alaska is done in June or July, which would limit your time in Japan. So you can spend a season in Japan, leave the boat there and sail across the next year or sail to Alaska a little later to overwinter the boat before continuing next summer.
Best of both worlds
What if you want to combine both the north Atlantic and north Pacific? It’s possible; the unusual itinerary starts in the Caribbean and follows the Gulf Stream north to New York. From there, you travel over the Erie Canal with the mast on deck or you can continue north and sail to the Great Lakes via the St Lawrence Seaway.
“For us the Great Lakes are one of the best cruising areas we’ve been. Thousands of islands, great sailing with wind from all directions. And fresh water, which is a nice change. It is cold, but we loved it,” Turkish cruiser Banu Oney says.
Her New Zealand partner Peter Saggers adds: “Our cruise of the Great Lakes ended in Duluth, Minnesota, where our Beneteau Oceanis 46 Denize II was lifted on a truck and relaunched in Seattle, Washington.” Once in north-west US, there are multiple options for cruising in the Inside Passage and spending several seasons in this beautiful area.
Another option, which involves more motoring, is to sail on the Great Lakes to Chicago. The mast needs to come down to be able to sail down the Mississippi river to Mobile, Alabama. This is part of America’s Great Loop, a very popular route.
From Mobile the options in the Caribbean can be explored.
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